Volkswagen Beetle Bug Me Dvds

In Volume 2, we demonstrate how to pull the motor. We start with showing where and how to lift the car and secure it on stands. Then we show in detail how to remove each necessary screw and nut to separate the motor from the car.

With the motor out and on the floor, we show ways to remove the flywheel and main seal. Next we show how to examine and replace the clutch disc, pressure plate, and flywheel and how to identify all the possible types to be sure you do the job right. We also show you what necessary changes need to me made in regards to the starter and flywheel when converting your car from 6 volt to 12 volt. Then we show you how to identify and replace the clutch release bearing and the arm that controls it. We now replace the rear transmission mounts that can cause clutch and shifting problems. Then you will learn how to replace the clutch cable from start to finish. The video winds up with putting the motor back in the car while showing you each step clearly and in order.

Volume 4 begins by showing several ways to remove the rear axle nut that holds the rear brake drum on. Once off we inspect the different brakes parts and show how to replace a faulty rear axle grease seal which can ruin new brakes if not corrected. Then step by step the old wheel cylinder, brake shoes, and brake hoses are examined and replaced as needed.

When replacing the front brakes attention is given to the front wheel bearings showing how they are paced with grease and replaced.

The master cylinder is then identified and replaced and then attention is given to the brake line that runs through the car.

Replacing the emergency cable is explained and repair and adjustment of the emergency brake handle is demonstrated.

Replacing disk brakes and calipers is covered in detail and a demonstration of the brake drums and rotors being resurfaced (turned) at the parts store is given.

We have given attention to all the common problems that you may face when doing a complete brake job so you will be totally prepared to do the whole job without a hitch.

In Volume 6 we start by showing how to fix the hole that we often find under the battery. We show several tools that can be used to cut away the rusted metal around the hole or the entire pan. We show both electric and air powered tools. We show how to fit the ready made patch panels to the hole and then demonstrate how easy the popular electric welders are to use.

We show how to remove the body from the standard and super beetle for those that want to do a "body off" restoration. But we also show the technique for replacing the pans with the body in place even on the convertibles.

We show and stress the importance of using good quality seam sealers, rust preventative coatings and undercoating.

In this 1HR 45MIN video we cover it all even the "never rust" fiberglass boards

In this video we start with installing a complete wiring harness in a '63 bug. Then we show the differences in the wiring as they progress over the years including the Super Beetle. We also show how to make certain modifications necessary because of items now obsolete.

There is much information here that you will not find anywhere else. After watching this video you will know where each and every wire goes and every connection. (fuel injection wiring will be covered in another video)

In this video we begin by showing you what the heater channel looks like and the different kinds available. We then move to our 63 sunroof bug and show where the channel is located in the car and exactly where and how it is attached. We then drill out the spot welds and cut the solid welds showing what tools can be used and where care should be exercised. When completely loose we show how to brace the door opening and lift the body enough to remove the old channel. (removing the body was demonstrated in Vol.6 and is needed info) Once the channel is out we repair a badly rusted door post (A pillar) by butt welding in a replacement panel. This is explained and demonstrated in clear detail.

Now the new channel is put in place; the body is lowered; and the channel is welded back into place. Door alignment is given attention during this final part.

At this point we move on to a '70 beetle convertible. The extra strengthening gussets and panels are pointed out and removed. Now a procedure that allows the channel to be removed without lifting the body is demonstrated. This is done by replacing the lower portion of the rear quarter panel (which was badly rusted on our car) and replacing a strip of metal in the front wheel well. Once these panels are removed the channel can be maneuvered out the side of the body. Another manner of securing the door opening is demonstrated here. With the channel back in place we show how to do a lap weld with a joggle in the panel when replacing the lower quarter panel. We show an inexpensive spot welding tool that can be used with any DC arc welder and how to do a plug weld. All without warping the flat panel.

Just for fun, the last few minutes of the tape is filled with outtakes from the video.